Korea, Russia, Stans To East Europe (page 63)

Bartang Valley Up To Murgab Day 3

Cold but clear, the forecast had changed for the better which was well cool as I was sure we would be packing up camp in the wet and it 3200 metres that is hard work.

Freezing is what greeted us, big load of hot porridge and a real coffee to boot the day into life we were off like a robbers dog, 19.2 km to the zigzag and a mofo cold hard breeze trying to blow us off our bikes.

We rose 700 metres in less that 5 minutes and change valley direction 90 degrees so once around the corner we had a reprieve from the sniper wind.

Frozen, creeks freezing solid overnight, here we are at 56 metres higher than Mt Cook in New Zealand at nearly 10.00am and the creek is just starting to thaw.

Cresting the zigzag and at 4000 metres the musterers camp that had been inhabited up till the week prior was empty and locked, a sure sign of winter is coming.

At one point there is earthquake damage which is a complete boulder field of reasonably sized rocks that got hurtled down, it makes for an interesting landscape.

Progress was steady and the weather held for us apart from being bitterly cold (noting this is normal for this time of year and altitude) which was mint, a quick comfort stop at some temporary bridge components, you really don’t want to “hang out” too long here with the slight breeze.

Back to the main Pamir highway where the humans hang we had a celebratory eat of smashed biscuits and bro fist (also known as power five, tater, PIB as in pound it bro, knucks, or pibbys)

Further along the Pamir Highway just getting up the pas we met Elisabeth that I had met in Vladivostok, a quick hello and photos we were on our way being chased down by snow cloud and mega freezing winds.

Again cresting the past it was 4666 on the map but my GPS said 4663, close enough, for a microsecond I took the photo then we bailed with a severe

– something windchill that was trying to carve me in half.

Over the pass was commanding colours oozing out of the hill sides so a photo stop was a must despite the chilly breeze, although trying to keep warm and survive is No1 so is the mind food you take in along the way or there is no point in going there, besides then you fullas can see it too.

Being chased by the snow and wind we hi-taled it down the road, try to get ahead of the cloud as it seemed to be building quicker than 45 could get away from it.