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Korea, Russia, Stans To East Europe (page 60)

Wakhan Valley To Khorog

182km to go on gravel broken pavement

Yumchun Fort is 12th century and sits at around 3000 metres looking across the valley to Afganistan, this is only 1 km down the road from Bibi Fatima hot springs.

Yumchun Fort ruins

Making our way down the valley was variable terrain with everything from nearly new asphalt to sandpits which meant keeping ya mind on the job, also in places the road was one lane wide with no barriers so your prize was a swim in deep swirling brown water if you got it wrong.  

Small patches of desert
Poor Felix nearly got blown off the road on this still day

An uneventful ride was had with views for both mountains and rock overhangs and the occasional military checkpoint thrown in

Just near the Wakhan river where it comes out of Afganistan

We came across this overhang which was very impressive, I wasn't too keen on parking under there too long LOL.

2 girls prolly shitting themselves
Absolutely dwarfs 45

Arriving at Khorog we went back to the same hostel, felt like a local and we were welcomed back in by the owners and the hooligan cat.

Plan A was to spent one night, clean up, sort then hit it again, we decided to make it 2 nights as we had arrived late afternoon and really needed most of the next day to get supplies and get sorted…. this changed rapidly.

While working on the Felix’s bike I started to feel a bit green (not with envy), the hostel guys gave us some vegetable soup and for me that didn’t mix well either.

Just after lunch all hell broke loose again (yeah ya fucken shittin me) and I puked my ring out and shat through the eye of a needle.

Yeah this was me

Am I over feeling crook, you betcha, back to the same Pharmacy and I got Antibiotics that work when everything else hasn’t, electrolytes, some stuff to stop me puking (although I reckon I was empty by now) and zinc.

It was a very hard afternoon and night with little sleep to help my body recover.

The morning came around and things had settled enough to have a weak coffee and some oats to try and restart the system. As energy increased and I stabilized (I felt very uneasy on my feet) I went for a walk into town to recharge the phone card and grab some bananas to help the system, the bananas I can say first hand are simply megafood for getting sorted, simple, honest and have the right goodies.

Feeling like the oldest fogie in the fossils union I had a couple of nanny naps to help in the hope that tomorrow will see things getting much better.

And ...while I am complaining electrolytes taste like shit and I believe there is a market for something that tastes like strawberries or chocolate or anything else really.

Tomorrow all going well we hit the Bartang to go up, we will take the opportunity while we can and time is on our side despite this occassioanl 'shiity' day.

Author of this article: Twomotokiwis