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Korea, Russia, Stans To East Europe (page 6)

Gumi-si To Hasong-ri

After a good start and some cruisy back roads I was heading to a nice Temple and cool place…I thought.

I got into a large city (which I hate), I sat at traffic lights more time today than the last 20 years in New Zealand.

It was hot, stickie and traffic was a bastid, the engine fan was kicking in and out keeping the wee girl from having a cook up but in the process slowly poaching me inside my riding gear.

I went to a deep dark corner of the city and the GPS was having some issues, it starts with the “No motos on major highways" thing again. 

So having my wits about me again with traffic burling all around me I hadn’t noticed that the GPS was telling me to go around in circles, once I looked up and established this fact I was gutted, prolly spent 30 needless minutes in heavy traffic...yes..fuck it

I knew the direction I needed to go so proceeded to follow the GPS to a point where I could break the cycle and hit it out of there.

So human intervention won and I was on my merry way, the road was larger, the traffic was flowing next thing I am in the 2nd to left lane of 4 and it was a toll road that motos are not allowed on with no way of exiting now, starting to shit myself Mrs.Garmin then says make a U turn….yeah nah, WR is a great bike but able to scale a motorway dividing fence with house and contents…I will send a request to Yamaha.

Too late and committed the Koreans get agitated when motos do wrong shit (motos are not respected here) so I could feel the glare, hitting the 4km long tunnel I just sat with the traffic like nothing was wrong, the lights in the tunnel flashing at me.

Wondering then if they have Korean BBQ in jail the options were pouring through my head like water through a sieve, none making sense…then came the toll gate…the lady was nutting off at me, I couldn’t understand a bloody thing but she was not happy (I am blessed with a 6th sense). 

I smiled and said “English” …. Nope she still yelled so I politely said goodbye and took the offramp 300 meters along, now out of the crap I was on my way again…. now another toll gate….ya shittin me ...but a friendly lady who just looked at me, I smiled stupidly as did she and she waved me through and pointed to the right which was the offramp…saved, I wanted a Pixie Caramel at that point .   

I can see them at their dinner table tonight…

How was your day honey?

Some dumb whiteyfoo came through my office on a little blue motorbike...

So what did you do?

What could I do cos he smiled so I smiled….dumb whiteyfoo.

By this time I had earned lunch, last nights grub which I took a doggy bag away with me cos there was too much, Pork parts and Kimchi, so the pork parts are intestines, stomach, meat and floor scrapings etc.

While sitting at some traffic lights (for what seemed hours) I noticed a seat under a tree so 45 mounted the curb, across the footpath and up to the shadowed seat.

I also had a Korean energy drink which the Police gave me (nutha story) so I gobbed that down along with my misc pork and Kimchi, I was local.

Getting out of town was a relief, got some air under my wings to dry out and apart from 1 or 2 drivers that thought I was invisible the avo went well.


Arriving at Hasong –ri I was spent, the shitty traffic and heat beating me up, found a shag hotel on the main drag north and decided to kip there, my front tyre was going down and I needed a slight repack of an extra bag not currently needed, some dishwashing liquid to hopefully fill the hole and some cable ties to strap up the bag job done.

The only pic worth torturing you with today is the vast difference within meters, so you have farming agriculture rice fields then across the street high rides and shitonnes of em, night and day difference.  



This is common theme here

Hasong-ri To Geumjin-ri

Goin Coastal, Plan A was to scoot up the east coast, for a change Plan A worked very well.

Now for you cyclist traveller types you can cycle pretty much all the way from Busan north and “follow the blue line”…assume to North Korean Border, will find out tomorrow when I get there.

It is twisty, empty and takes you through all the small towns and occasionally when you get bluffed you hop back on the 7 then soon back off at the next exit.

So, to start my day I left the hotel and it took me straight to the coast within 5 minutes, from there I took a turn seaward to what turns out to be Crab Coast.

Yes that is a rather large crab
All stainless steel sculpture embracing a crab, did I mention they have crabs here

I wanted to try the crab but it was not even smoko time thus no cookers were running so I passed on that idea, shame but wrong timing.

With so much to see it was so worth while scooting around the coast, monuments and statues dime a dozen and everywhere and no cars.

Not much to say other a pleasant riding day, my throat is a little sore and have a headache coming on so I think the in and out of AC from 35 deg to 18 deg has caught me up so this report is more about the pictures to enjoy rather than me whine like a poor we princess.  

Hey look a crab nipper..
45 at the end of a new pier being built, stunning weather day
Gynormous stair and walkway out onto the harbour
This is the blue line which represents the cycleway, just followed that all day and it was quiet and scenic
Fish for a change, no bridge in this area is just a bridge, every bridge has a work of art of some descripts and usually a monumental size.
Photo of photographers, not sure exactly what they were taking pictures of but they were busy, the beach at Geumjin-ri

Geumjin-ri To North Korea ToJeonjin-ri  

Yeap was gonna have lunch with Kim Jong Un but you know I had to pull out given my busy schedule, I feel sorry for standing him up but hey that is travelling for you.

So, going coastal, staying off the 7 which is the main drag and taking all the beach roads, this thin blue line is in fact a cycleway from Busan right up to Seoul, it is a long way through nice places, that is now on our bucket list to do and having had my feet on the ground a little wiser.

Yes that is a big ship in the parking lot eh, you can go for tours through it.

At one point I was turning a corner and a cyclist yelled out so I pulled over and stopped, had a yarn, they knew just looking at the bike and my gear I was local on another planet.

Showed them pics of my pushie and we were instant mates, really cool guys on a 200 km round ride for the day …..ppfffff do that on the moto in a day bro.


Yeah man buds for life.

Then came my disappointment, got to within 9 km of North Korea then stopped at a military checkpoint, dudes had big guns so I assume Taxinda has not got to them yet LOL.

Foreign bike, whiteyfoo, papers not correct for heading north, purely for South, I asked nicely and the said no even nicer, very polite gents, but the decision was firm, I said I come from New Zealand and one officer even knew where it is and explained to his offsider, while they apologized they said that is the rules so Kim Jong Un you missed our on a free 2 minute noodle lunch with stolen coffee.

Ok, I tried and was gonna pour on the tears but I didn’t want them to think Kiwis are softies so appreciative of having got that far was good enough, waved goodbye and turned around, NO photos, I did ask without pushing my luck but that was also a very firm no....cheers anyway.


That's it, yeap not much to look at.

Ok, I tried and was gonna pour on the tears but I didn’t want them to think Kiwis are softies so appreciative of having got that far was good enough, waved goodbye and turned around, NO photos, I did ask without pushing my luck but that was also no.

So me and 45 cranked it inland for a changed of scenery, here in the DMZ (De-militarized-Zone) there are barbed wire fences at beachs, gun turret mounts and general war looking things to remind you of the hard and sad history.









There is a lot of this and all painted out cammo
Stunning Mounts to boot

Looping back out to the coast I stopped at Jeonjin-ri and set camp.

Waterfront property WOH HOH
Author of this article: Twomotokiwis