• Articles
  • Korea, Russia, Stans To East Europe

Korea, Russia, Stans To East Europe (page 52)

Kazarman To Osh

Taking the back way, yeap good at that so that is the plan.

Straight out of the hostel a big dog lined me up and went for me, I swerved across into his path, he biffed the brakes on but too late and I swung my boot out inducing a kingpin hit under his chin …well he yelped and ran off so strike 1 for the moto.

Bugga me, wasn’t 500 metres up the road and another dog came out, take 2, I rode up towards him then he made a break for me so again I turned into his path too disturbing his planned trajectory and smashed him clean in the throat with the Sidi missile and he too was slightly surprised and was extremely unhappy, strike 2 for the moto …I knew it was going to be a good day.     

Wasn’t long and I was in the snow line again and I was half way up the pass.

Halfway up and already at the snow line

As I neared the top the snow got thicker but my road was clear other than being muddy and wet with occasional snow piles.

With my mind on the job I was skidding and sliding which made for some fun, my back tire getting low in tread did not help.

The sun making a good job of melting the snow
Epic views and a stunning day to boot

The final corner before the summit was a welcome sight, at least I knew I would be able to over the top.

The summit in the background

Passing the top I could see my down to civilization which meant disrespectful stuntmen and rally drivers, they didn’t let me down either, big cities here are just crap to ride in.

My bonus for the day was the temperatures getting warm which was stark contract to Song-Kul at the lake in the snow.

The view down the valley towards Osh so looking west.

In Osh my mission was to change the engine oil, clean the air filter, get a new front sprocket. I managed all except a front sprocket, I also changed the rear tire which “might” have got me to Turkey but might not and given there are no moto shops in Uzbekistan and I had a Heidenau tire steering at me it made sense to change it.

Osh had turned on a mint day as well, hot sun meant the tire would get hot making it much more supple and easier to change and this worked a treat. 




Spooned off the Mitas
Heidenau half fitted and turn over to get the sun
Spooned on ready to inflate
A happy man.

Everything done and dusted other than a front sprocket I am ready to hit Tajikistan.

Money change in the morning, then up and over another pass to 4200 metres, hopefully the snow has cleared and I can get through to Sarry Tash which is the last border town before Tajikistan.

Osh To Sary-Tash

An Ozzie lad Simon had a few issues with his moto so what does a good kiwi neighbour do but jump in and help, he had the parts so we rebuilt the top end including new camshaft and rockers.

The cam journel in the head was elongated and ovaled so there was nothing we could do about that on a Sunday, getting the engine back together then we slung the engine back into the frame and in no time he was running. 

He said it had been running really hot which meant very lean so I suggested a check all filters and a full carb clean, I was bang on the knocker with every filter and jet blocked up with all kinds of aliens, I massive clean saw fuel flowing and the bike running like a champ again, was very nice to see it running and running pretty well. 

The day I was leaving I ate something bad for breaky and yeap it came out, I left Osh feeling pretty bad after having 2 lots of Chinese poos pills which slowed the gut cramps down. I was also given some high powered shit from some cyclists so it was enough to hit the road.

Simon trying to look busy
All go!!

On the way to Sary Tash and meet Geri on a 790, I so wanted to sit on the bike as I had not seen a 790 in real life but all I could think of was not exploding in my undies or puking especially in my helmet. I felt very spaced out and cold but managed to pull a fake smile for the camera, we said goodbyes and I left feeling seriously bad, then I realized I was so concerned with my inner body functions becoming outer body dysfunction I didn't even sit on his bike or chew the fat on it, I sent a message to him after explaining my circumstance and he understood als having had a crook guts. 

Top bloke and really friendly

Getting to the pass at 3600 metres was freezing and I was empty of anything to keep me warm, aching like a bastid and ready to die, arriving at Sary-Tash I was meant to meet Felix, a rider from Europe we are going to ride the Bartang together.

I quickly wrestled my way into a hot shower and thawed out and climbed straight into bed. 

As luck would have it Felix was running a day late so it gave me some time to die in Sary Tash which worked out very well. 

Author of this article: Twomotokiwis