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Korea, Russia, Stans To East Europe (page 19)

Butugychag To Susuman To Kadachan/Arkagala

While the weather had been threatening to give us a wash it held off and we were very lucky to pack up dry.

The mozzies which included some air were thick as thieves so a hurried pack up was in order, we both had wet boots and pants from Anatolys wee stop in a pond so yeah cold wet socks boots and pants … n o i c e.

Anatoly on the last creek crossing out

Slightly wiser for it we took the other side of the hole which was not as deep, making to the main road then saw us rejoin the dust race….until mum nature changed her mind.

With around 350 km to do all on gravel (as will the next 3500 km) the temperature dropped like a stone and yeap no more dust.

We were going to stop at Om-Chug for a hot breakfast but the shop was not open, pulling over into a layby saw us brew coffee and soup and banging on extra layers.

If the temperature was about 3-4 degrees that would have been it, we only had a another 250 km to do in the heavy rain….that is what I was thinking too.

Full wets, winter gloves, heated grips on one of full I was comfy and despite the heavy rain and mud spray I was seriously impressed with my Klim Krios helmet with not even a slither of water coming in between the visor and helmet and the pinlock earning its keep, that is way more than I can say for both my Arai and Shoei which I thought were good.

We both had a few moments on the Siberian rain fed clay based road which saw traction stolen from both of us, one particular section down to third gear taking it very easy and yes were are still on the main-ish drag turning on grease to avoid bomb size potholes….how much fun can you have in one day.

Arriving at Susaman we hit a café and hot coffee, soup and a bun were in order, off to the supermarket next door to get food for the following few days which included camping out at Arkagla for two nights to see the heavy rain out.

Susuman outside the cafe

Kadachan / Arkagala

The Gold towns ..... that was.

Arriving in heavy rain our bikes are covered in Siberian road wash, Anatoly knowing of a hut was excellent so we arrived to a small 5 star hut complete with a fire that turned it into a sauna in no time, our gear drying out nice and fast, a total God send when you need it, 45 even had undercover parking in a coalbin which enabled us to use the USB charger to refill cameras etc.

Such was the water coming out of our gear it steamed the place out so many times we excited and held the door open to swap out the air.

50 plus degrees inside and about 6 degrees outside...and steaming

This hut was mint, even our boots were starting to dry or at least to from soaking to only damp.

The brief history is there was a very large gold mine just up the road, an epic explosion in the mine saw it close with no hope of reopening, overnight the towns run out of work which was solely mine based.

All services that supported this as well all just upped and left to other places to earn money.

Thus there was no value whatsoever left in their property and people literally took their belongings and left creating a decaying abandoned town which has gone to ruin.

Again, full on sad history for those here who endured severe climate and conditions just to have the whole lot ripped out from under them, no compensation just tough luck.

If you want to more history and background google Kadykchan

This post will be of photos as I can not tell you any more to do it justice.

Author of this article: Twomotokiwis